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The Evenheat GTS 23-9 Glass Kiln
Suppose you have decided to buy this kiln for its reputation for even firing. How do you set it up and put it into action?  (The advice may be applicable to other kilns.)
Firstly you look at the Evenheat web site and download the data on it. That tells you the inside measurements, electrical characteristics, and some advice about where to site it. So far so good. However, I found this not enough. I wanted to know the external measurements so I could design the workspace ahead of its arrival. Here is my experience and comments after receiving the kiln and also doing a bit of cut-and-try.
Everyone advises you to put the kiln on a concrete floor, a moderate distance from all walls (especially painted or combustible). I had a concrete floor and an unpainted concrete block niche, but putting it on the floor was far too low. It would certainly strain my back to put the kiln shelf and glass into the kiln. My judgment is that the kiln stand needs to be about 400mm off the floor, which puts the top of the kiln opening 900mm from the floor. This is a nice height for for me to work inside the cold kiln, though I have to sit on a little portable stool to program the Rampmaster 2 controller.
Useful data not in the data sheets
The kiln has an outside diameter of 770 mm and a height of 500 mm from the base of the stand to the top of the kiln proper. The lid is 55 mm thick on top of that. The kiln stand has legs at the corners of a 500 mm square and is 210 mm high (included in the previous height). If the front legs are 230 mm from the front of the base the kiln sits on, the kiln will not overhang the base. Americans, please divide mm by 25.4 to get inches.
The Base
In my case, the concrete floor sloped downwards towards the back by about 15 mm, so I built a steel frame to take up the slope. The girders go by the name of EasiAngle and are made for warehouse and display storage. Spaced exactly at the width of the kiln base (500 mm x 500 mm) but not visible in the photo are two angles on which the feet sit. On top of this is a piece of the thickest cement sheet (non-flammable) that I could find. To make sure the kiln doesn't slip at all, I drilled two holes through the front two plastic feet of the kiln base and bolted them through the sheet to the girders.
My cost: around $A100. Here is a photo.
An idea which I would have preferred on a level floor was to build up the floor from 200 x 200 x 400 mm concrete Besser blocks to make an 800 x 800 x 400 base. It would take 16 blocks and cost around $A60. It would never move on its own.  This is the concept (overlap the blocks as shown).
In both cases everything around and under the kiln is (a) non-flammable, and (b) solid. The last thing anyone wants with a hot kiln is for it to fall over. Or a house fire.
Use of this data is strictly at your own risk. I disclaim all responsibility for any injury to yourself, loss of funds, or damage to your property or any glass product you may make.

© Copyright  2000  AHJ Sale
Page last modified on 2001 October 24